Discovering Bohol after the earthquake-Part 1

When a 7.2-magnitude earthquake rocked Bohol on October 15, 2013, many feared that the island's eco-tourism will suffer greatly as death and devastation were reported internationally through heartbreaking images. 

Since the province is now considered one of the best destinations in the country today, the greatest question back then was, "Have you ever been to Bohol?" 

If you answered no, then too bad for you. 

Unfortunately, I was one of those who answered a regretful no. With a heavy heart, I'd think to myself, I should have traveled to the Visayan island way before the earthquake to fully see its beauty. 

Finally from October 1 to 3—two weeks before the earthquake’s first anniversary—I was given the chance to discover Bohol, representing The Manila Times in a familiarization tour sponsored by the Department of Tourism. 

And what I realized was that contrary to belief, Bohol is fast recovering from one of its most difficult ordeals. More importantly, it has remained as beautiful as before with culture and nature melting together in one destination. 

This is my first-timer, firsthand perspective of Bohol. 

(Text originally published for The Manila Times. All photos are mine taken using Nokia Lumia 1520.)

First-timers’ list
The Chocolate Hills and the Philippine tarsiers are always included in the must-see checklist of Bohol first-timers. This is why our tour guide, Joshue Hinay, presented his province’s most famous stars in the best possible ways. 

First was the natural encounter with the tarsiers, the world’s smallest prosimian, sub-order specie of the primates but million years older than monkeys. 

The little creature with amusing features

While many tourist photos circulating the Internet show them posing with or even touching the creature, Hinay discouraged these practices. For him, visitors must opt to go to the 8-hectare Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary located in the town of Corella. Built and sponsored by the non-profit Philippine Tarsier Foundation Inc., the sanctuary aims to conserve the Philippine tarsier and its habitat. 

There, Carlito “Lito” Pizarras is waiting to impart his knowledge about the Philippines tarsiers, which he began studying at the age of 13. Now 60 years old, Pizarras continues to learn from the interesting creatures by serving as the sanctuary’s field supervisor since day 1. 

The 'Tarsier Man', Lito Pizarras

His dedication has earned him the title “Tarsier Man,” as well the inclusion of his name to the scientific name of the Philippine tarsier—Tarsius Carlito syrichta. 

Pizarras greeted the media group and shared tidbits of information about the tarsier. According to him, at 4 centimeters max in height, tarsier is a solitary and territorial animal that lives within a 50-square meter area, and hunts within a 1-hectare zone. Being nocturnal, it sleeps by day and hunts by night to eat its primary food, insects. 

After this, an in-house tour guide brought the visitors to the tarsiers, which are resting by then in its natural habitat. Touching is prohibited while noise must be reduced as to not disturb or stress the creatures. Photography is allowed but without flash. 

In parting, Pizarras shared his hopes to further increase the population of Philippine tarsiers in Bohol, which are now over a hundred. 

After the tarsier encounter, up next was the Chocolate Hills experience. While you can always view the wonders of nature from the government-owned and -ran viewing deck—operational again after the earthquake—there is a new place in Bohol that is offering a different perspective.

I love adventures!

This is the Chocolate Hills Adventure Park (CHAP), a well-built eco-park located in the first barangay upon entering Carmen, if coming from Tagbilaran City. 

“Situated in the most scenic of sites, CHAP offers a fresh angle on the panorama of the hills through its adrenaline-pumping thrills and scenic nature trails,” shared Jing Velasco, the managing director of the property. 

Indeed, visitors of CHAP—just like some of the adventurous members of the media tour—will get their “high” on CHAP’s The Rush, a 550-meter bike zip hanging 150-feet above the ground. While biking, let go of your fears to appreciate the magnificent view of the Chocolate Hills. 

That's me enjoying The Rush! (Photo by Joy Felizardo of gastronomybyjoy.com)

Besides The Rush, CHAP also offers various rope activities like canopy walk, Burma planks, and mini version for kids, among others. To commune with Mother Earth, there are hike trails, a Serpentarium, an animal interaction area, and a camping site.  

Opened only in April 2013, CHAP is owned and operated by Manila-based inventors who want to complement and not compete with what Bohol already has. 

CHAP is well-integrated with its natural surrounding

Velasco explained, “Our philosophy is that everything that we put up in the complex must complement Bohol, environmentally and economically. First, whatever we do is approved by DENR [Department of Environment and Natural Resources] to keep the natural environment of the hills. And second, whatever attractions we have and will have in the future, Bohol doesn’t have yet. This is to encourage tourists to spend and return here.”

Soon, CHAP will launch its Zorb activities. In the future, it aims to build rooms for accommodation. 

Heritage churches 
Bohol is home to some of the Philippines’ oldest churches so it was unfortunate that many were damaged by the earthquake. Some even fell to the ground.

Considered as heritage sites and national treasures by the National Commission on Culture and the Arts, these churches contribute greatly to the diverse tourism of the province. 

But as Hinay said, as a way of "turning something bad into good,” he along with fellow tour guides are still bringing tourists to the damaged churches. 

As part of his “Countryside Travel Package”—offered by CCT.168 Travel and Tours Corp.—Hinay brought the media group to the Baclayon Church of Bohol. 

The Baclayon Church

The coral stones of the church collected so that hopefully,
it will to be put up again during the restoration process (Photo by the author)

Officially called the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, it established Christianity in the island when the first Spanish missionaries arrived in 1595. At the place where the first visita was erected now stood the Baclayon Church with destroyed entrance and bell tower. Thankfully, the rest of the Jesuit-turned-Augustinian church was left standing, as well as its old rectory serving as a museum and a school.

The museum containing the church's old relics, statues and paraphernalia is back to operations for tourists, while students have also returned to school. As of the moment, Baclayon community hears mass in a makeshift area just outside their church.

Hinay said that Baclayon Church, along with other churches that can be restored, are now undergoing data-gathering and digital-mapping done by respective local dioceses and the National Historical Commission of the Philippines.

The Loboc Church

Also seen was the Church of San Pedro in Loboc, the second oldest church in Bohol. Originally built in 1602, the Loboc church was also wrecked like Baclayon but even worse as a part of its roof and walls in the middle part also caved in. 

Last visited was one of the least-damaged, the Sta. Monica Church in Alburquerque, saved by a recent restoration started before the calamity. Not seen, however, were the 17th-century churches of Loon and Maribojoc, both completely turned into rubble. 

The altar and part of the ceiling painting of Alburquerque Church

According to Hinay, the reason why many of the old structures collapsed was because the 2013 quake was unique in a sense that its movement was upward and downward. Because the churches were built hundreds of years ago, they didn't have the technology to be protected from such.

On October 15, all standing churches of Bohol rang their bells at 8:12 a.m. for 33 seconds significantly marking the exact time and length of the earthquake. Afterward, simultaneous masses at 8:15 a.m. were also held.

To be continued...