Baler Part 2: Sidetrip to 'Mother Falls'

Enjoy this scenery on your way to Mother Falls

Considered as one of the most famous destinations for Baler visitors, Mother Falls is actually not found in Baler but in neighboring town of San Luis in Aurora province. 

Only a couple of minutes when traveling via PUVs from Baler (individuals or groups can rent vans or tricycles depending on budget), Mother Falls has become a favorite not only because of its proximity but also its experience. 

The trek to Mother Falls 

Officially named the Ditumabo Falls as it is found in Barangay Ditumabo, Mother Falls is nestled within a portion of the majestic Sierra Madre Mountain Range (one of the longest in the Philippines as it traverses Luzon from north to south). 

For starters, the hike going to the falls itself is much longer than the drive to Barangay Ditumabo. It usually takes an hour of leisurely trek going to the falls, so definitely, it takes about three hours back and forth with swimming, rest and snacks already included in between. 

But don't be afraid as the hike to the falls is friendly especially for those who are active or who are used to hiking because distance from the foot of the mountain to the falls itself is just a kilometer. 

Green and moist. So fresh and cool to the eyes. 

And although the terrain is rugged with lots of boulders and streams to cross, this is part of the experience itself, which is further heightened by the mountain's rainforest. The rocky, flowing streams and "baby" falls that comes from Mother Falls combined with the lush, green canopy and moisty flora, the trek offers the perfect scenery to commune with Mother Earth. 

Unfortunately, serenity is broken by the continuous going in and out of people so I suggest not to visit Mother Falls during peak season--which is now. 

You're near the destination once you begin ascent
on a flat and concrete walkway

You know you're halfway to the destination when you reach the hut where you will have to pay an environmental fee. My brother, who had been to Mother Falls even before all the hype, said that trekking used to be free. I do hope that all the money is actually going to the preservation of the place. 

Upon reaching an upward concrete walkway, then you'll know you're near Mother Falls. And seeing it, you'll understand why it is dubbed such. 

Indeed, Mother Falls is bigger than all the other falls that you will pass by. At its bottom is a crystal clear pool of icy spring water! Take a dip, shower under the big falls if you can, and just let the feeling wash away your exhaustion from hiking. 

Sorry blurred! The falls was so strong its mists reached my lenses

Another downside though, the summer season sure brings in a lot of tourists as you'll have to share the Mother Falls with others, many others! Would you believe that people who are just arriving and those who are already leaving even cause traffic in the narrow walkway! Best be careful or you might slip and fall.  

If you want to escape the crowd, try going to the smaller pools and falls below, and wade there all you want. 

If you find the Mother Falls too crowded,
take a shower in the smaller falls instead 

On you're way down, make sure to stop by the food huts of the locals of Barangay Ditumabo to taste some of their delicacies like banana cue and suman, as well as popular snacks like grilled hotdog and corn. You can also take home freshly picked paco (green shoots that grow in the mountains) sold by the vendors. 

All in all, I'd love to visit Mother Falls again sans the noisy crowd! 

And maybe if there is a good guide, I can also see what locals call the "Father Falls"! If this is true, said falls is much bigger than Mother Falls and found deeper and higher within the mountains!

View my collection of Mother Falls here. 


Read "Baler Part 1: Around town" by following this link or "Baler Part 3: Beyond Sabang by clicking this link.

(TEXT AND PHOTOS ARE MINE. ©EUDEN VALDEZ)

Baler Part 1: Around town

Museo de Baler is found at the site where
Commonwealth President Manuel Quezon was born.

Baler is one of the oldest towns in the Philippines having marked its 400th year in August of 2011. Because of this, its culture is enriched by history and heritage as seen in its streets and structures, and as spoken by its people.

Yet the capitol town of Aurora province is also teeming with adventures. Nestled in the Caraballo Range of the Sierra Madre Mountains and outlined by the Pacific Ocean in east, Baler is home to Sabang Beach, which is famous for surfing, as well as a number of other natural wonders--making it a promising hub for eco-tourism.

As a first-timer in this new land, I could say that all my cravings for culture and adventure were satisfied in a span of three days--with many more places left to see and experience.

In this first part of a series, join me as I toured around town by following Baler's historical trail, and by walking another kilometer from Kilometer Zero. 

Baler Church where the historic Siege of Baler took place

Baler's historical trail begins with its church, established by Franciscan priests using nipa and bamboo only at Sabang Beach in 1500s. Destroyed by a tsunami in the 17th century, it was transferred and built where it stands today. 

Besides being the town's symbol of Catholicism and faith, the church is also a historical place as it is where Spanish soldiers last stood against the Filipino revolution from 1898 to 1899. 

Quoting its historical marker: "A Spanish garrison of four officers and fifty men was besieged in this church by Filipino insurgents from June 2, 1898 to June 27, 1899. . . The garrison learned for the first time that the Philippines had been lost to Spain and that for many months, there had been no Spanish flag in Luzon, except the one waving over Baler Church."

A reproduction of the signatures of the Spanish soldiers
who survived the Siege of Baler. The original
 is displayed in a museum in Spain

The brave Spanish soldiers had to endure so much from the equally brave Filipinos who fought for freedom at last. Many died from disease and some were killed. Those who survived from the siege were "rewarded by the Queen Regent" upon their return to their homeland. 

After Baler Church, a visitor/tourist/wanderer then follows the trail (quite literal because there are actually footsteps imprinted at the the streets) to the residence of Doña Aurora Quezon, wife of Philippine Commonwealth President and Father of Filipino Language Manuel Quezon. Both hails from the town and lived very near from each other. (The provinces of Quezon and Aurora were named after the president and first lady, respectively.)

The residence of Dona Aurora

A local friend even told me, that the people of Baler believe that Doña Aurora and President Quezon were even related by blood (magkamag-anak?!).

Moving on, next stop is the town's Municipal Plaza. The current location of the plaza is where survivors of the December 27, 1735 tsunami rebuilt the new town hall, as well as the church. Only a few families survived by climbing up Ermita Hill, considered as one of the highest peaks of Baler. 

In front of the municipal hall, a monument of National Hero Jose Rizal stood the test of time. Beside him, a bust of Andres Bonifacio was also built. A few paces to his left, a monument of President Quezon was erected by former Sen. Edgardo Angara, also a favorite son of Baler thanks to the legacy left by his parents. 

Also at the plaza is the "Baler 400 Years" commemorative monument by Filipino installation artist Junyee. It features four pillars interconnected by 100 horizontal lines to represent the town's four centuries of history. Again, it was commissioned by former Sen. Angara. 

I bet the monuments of Jose Rizal and President Manuel Quezon
are enjoying this change in scenery  

Last on the list is the Museo de Baler located on a site where President Quezon was born on August 19, 1878. The Commonwealth president is very much associated to Baler that even up to this day, many Filipinos still think that the town is still part of Quezon province. (Aurora used to be part of Quezon until it was created a province in 1979 and Baler was chosen to be its capitol town.)

The museum is built only in 2003 again through the efforts of the Angaras. Large and old trees surround the museum, and in the middle, sits a very majestic sculpture of President Quezon. 

The museum features a traditional structure covered in red bricks and bronze bas-reliefs depicting historical moments of the Philippines. 

Inside, a collection of town artifacts are found, as well as contemporary collections in partnership with other institutions like the Instituto Cervantes Manila. 

Beyond the historical trail, there is also so much more to see in downtown Baler. Here are the sights I spotted and shot: 

Balerianos are devout of the Nazareno too; The defunct Bank of Baler spotted

(Clockwise from top left) The old Georgina Cinema; the town market;
an old establishment; and a printing press

Baler in numbers:

9,255 hectares: land area;
about 39,109: population;
3rd class: municipality;232 kilometers away from Manila with
4 to 8 estimated travel time.

View my photo essay of Baler's historical structures and commercial establishments here.

Read "Baler Part 2: Sidetrip to Mother Falls" by following this link, or "Baler Part 3: Beyond Sabang by clicking this link.

(TEXT AND PHOTOS ARE MINE. ©EUDENVALDEZ)

First trip of 2015: Cebu City

I declare 2015 to be the year that I will explore the Philippines and hopefully nearby Asian countries on my own. I will take it one place at a time. 

Basilica Minore del Santo Nino

Last week, I was sent to Cebu to cover the press launch of Cebu Pacific's lifestyle reward program, the GetGo. The event was held at the Movenpick Hotel in Mactan Island at Lapu-Lapu City. 

Since the coverage was only overnight, I decided to extend my stay in Cebu for another night. Why? Because, the truth is, even if it wasn't my first time at the Visayan province, I still hadn't visited Cebu City's touristy destinations, like the Basilica del Sto. Niño and the Magellan's Cross for example!

Fuente Osmeña

But more than that, I really wanted to explore one of the Philippines' oldest towns, dubbed "Downtown Cebu," and immerse myself in the Cebuano community. After all, that's what travelling really is, right?
For my extra night, I stayed at Summit Circle in Fuente Osmena Circle (or the rotunda), and the hotel is just above a Robinsons Mall (coincidentally, both properties are also owned and run by the Gokongwei's of CebuPac).

Checking in late in the afternoon, I immediately went to go to the old town square by taking the multi-cabs that pass by the hotel. The ride was nice because in a way, it was sightseeing in itself. And the driver was kind enough to bring me to my destination. 

First up was the Church and Convent of Santo Niño. One of the oldest churches in the province, the Basilica Minore del Santo Nino was first established in 1565 by Augustinian fathers led by Rev. Andres Urdaneta. 

Serving as Cebu's head church, the basilica had a steady stream of people visiting and praying that day, even if it was a Wednesday. The security guard even told me that it wasn't as much as the crowd on weekends. "Hindi na magkasya ang tao," he noted. 

Upon entering the vicinity, I immediately saw people lighting candles as an offering for their prayers. I lighted six candles myself for six of the most important people of my life. 

And then, I went inside the church itself and there were also many Cebuanos. Younger ones were just sitting quietly, while older ones were practicing older traditions like kneeling up to the altar in prayer. 

Meanwhile, a long line of people were awaiting to touch the image of the Santo Nino, which is really the center of church's faith.

The church had a garden with a beautiful wishing well, as well religious statues. Also surrounding the church are images of Mother Mary, Jesus Christ and other saints encased in glass. 

Acts of faith

And in whatever relic or moment, people were always paying their respects. That was why the agnostic me was really touched by the faith of the Cebuanos. 

Warm smiles

Besides exploring the Basilica, I also chatted with a group of female employees sitting in front of the Cebu City Hall, standing mighty beside the basilica. They readily offered their warm smiles to me when I asked to take a photo of them. 

Unfortunately, the Magellan's Cross was closed for renovation because it was also affected by the 2013 earthquake that hit Visayas.

After that, I walked to the nearby Carbon district. Brave and alert, I actually walked the back streets, which very much looked like Binondo or Divisoria. There were old establishments for trades of all sort. I thought there would be danggit at the Carbon Public Market but there wasn't.

So I walked the area some more to where I could get another jeep to Taboan Market, the famous place for danggit, pusit and other edible pasalubong like the otap and Carcar chicaron. All of the above was included in my must have for my matakaw family.

The bustling district of commerce, Carbon

Hungry from all the walking and photographing, I had to take the cab this time back to Fuente Osmena and straight to Larsian. Oh Larsian! 

Inside, a food haven awaits me

A famous dining destination in Cebu City, I would have not known this place if not from the recommendation of CebuPac's Allan Florendo, head of GetGo marketing. 

From what Sir Allan told me, I imagined Larsian to be a dampa style of dining where you get fresh and raw food, usually seafood, and have it cooked by the food outlets. The difference was that instead of each outlet cooking your food privately, there is a big grilling area right at the center of Larsian. 

Going around, I found a spot that appeared to me, the most friendly to a lone diner. So I sat at the tip of the long table, away from the group of family. While waiting for my local sausage, they simply call it sweet and spicy chorizo, and white marlin to be grilled, three strangers sat near me. 

Alone no more! My dining buddies that night.

Talking, I heard the American tell another foreigner that it would be exciting to eat at the place. It appeared that it was his first time. Ever the madaldal me, I commented I am quite excited as well as it was my first time too. 

And with that, I got the invitation to join them in dinner. And I did because it was the chance to share and hear new stories. As it turned out, the American named Dana was joined by his Cebuana girlfriend Bing, and the other one, Peter, was a Scot who was traveling around Asia for a month. The trio met at the airplane coming from Palawan to Cebu. 

Masarap!

Because we were eating, the subjects of our conversation became food, local delicacies from all over the Philippines, and Scotland's very own cuisine, which was very interesting. We also talked about traveling, of course!

After that, we parted ways with filled tummies and an unforgettable night. 

The next day, it was time to head back to Manila. But there was no getting home until I had my Avatar, an accessories brand originating from Cebu, as well as the famous Cebu lechon, said to be one of the best in the entire country. 

Accessories heaven

The perfect lechon

Fortunately for me, both could be found at the Mactan International Airport so I spent my remaining time shopping and eating, again! 

'Til next time Cebu! There are still so many things to do and see in this Queen City of the South. 

(ALL PHOTOS ARE MINE. TAKEN WITH NOKIA LUMIA 1520)