'Child' not 'Doctor'; 'Apocalypse' not 'Strange'

I want to shut up about this (I do not want to be "panira") but I will express myself nonetheless because I believe this needs to be shared. 

Last Saturday, October 29, I took Mama to the cinema to watch the Filipino independent film "Apocalypse Child," which was first shown last year at the QCinema film festival. That was amidst a majority of cinemagoers rooting for "Doctor Strange," the major Marvel movie starring Benedict Cumberbatch! Mr. Cumberbatch's match, Sid Lucero who I daresay is as believable and as effective as an actor. 

And so, there we were, lined up at the senior citizen lane (Mama perks haha). I clearly told the SM Megamall box office attendant, "Two tickets for 'Apocalypse Child.'"

"For 7:40 (p.m.) po?" she asked back. 

"Uh, 7:50." I said coz the screening time for Apocalypse Child at Cinema 1 indicated so. 

"Pili na po kayong seats."

I looked at the screen and I thought to myself, WHOA! 

Out of 600 seats, more than half are already occupied. Namromlema pa ako dahil hindi na maganda seats namin ni Mama. 

Could it be true that "Apocalypse Child's" online marketing worked? Could it be possible that the little child actually gave the Marvel giant a good fight? And could it be really, really happening: Filipinos now cared about locally produced films, the ones that actually made sense? 

No, no and a big NO!

The box office attendant apparently assumed that I came to see "Doctor Strange" because, obviously, everybody was! (If I remembered correctly, 8 out of Megamall's 12 cinemas were screening the Marvel film.) So, she got us tickets to the 7:40 p.m. showing of "Doctor Strange." Kaya pala!

OK, I admit. I was also stupid for not looking at the tickets handed to me. (Food was the next thing in my mind, haha). I only realized the mistake when Mama and I were already entrance of Cinema 1, "Apocalypse Child" to play in 5 minutes. 

As I inserted the automated cards that came with the tickets, it got churned out so naturally, I asked the entrance personnel, "Ate bakit nilabas?"

She looked at my tickets and answered, "Ma'am 'Doctor Strange' po ang tickets nyo."

"Ha! Hindi, sabi ko 'Apocalypse Child' e!" 

A woman beside her, who was wearing a Sinag Maynila T-shirt (which made me assume she was there for 'Apocalypse Child'), then told the personnel: "Papalitan mo na lang." 

"Sige," I agreed and then before the confused SM Megamall employee left to the ticket booths, "Paano yong seat number namin?"

"Ma'am kahit saan, konti lang naman ang tao." 

Upon entering the cinema, all my hopes were shattered. I could count in my fingers the few Filipinos watching "Apocalypse Child." 

What was I imagining really when I saw that half-filled cinema in the ticket booth screen? By then I should've already noticed something was wrong.  

Of course, Filipinos would choose a well-budgeted foreign film over an independently produced film even if it was their OWN. 

I'm not saying don't watch Marvel films. I myself will be watching "Doctor Strange" in the big screen. 

All I'm appealing is that, if you could spend P250 for a Hollywood movie that would surely rake millions of dollars, why not spare P250 for a Pinoy indie that would probably never even earn back half of its budget spent.

You'll be surprised, you'll also get your money's worth. Maybe not in entertainment value but in enlightenment value. And that is what we need badly today in our society! 

(Willingly spending P250 over Star Cinema rom-coms are of another breed. I rather not go into that.)

As of this writing, "Apocalypse Child" would probably be pulled out from cinemas already after only a week-long slot, at the most! You can't blame the businessmen entirely. Sadyang Hindi sapat 'yong nanonood e. Parehong olats ang pelikula at ang sinehan. 

Pero ang pinaka-talo, ang mga mamayang Pilipinong hindi marunong tumangkilik ng sariling likhang sining. 

***
But here comes the panira part, which is now entirely my fault. 

I expected too much from "Apocalypse Child" after seeing rave reviews from the likes of directors Erik Matti ("On the Job") and Jerrold Tarog ("Heneral Luna"). Also, it had won important awards namely Best Picture and Best Director for Mario Cornejo at QCinema awards last year. 

I believe the film deserve all the love and trophies it had received so far. The film was a subtle kind of beautiful with nuanced acting close to perfection. Montejo brought out the best in his cast namely Sid Lucero, Annicka Dolonius (Best Supporting Actress, QCinema), Ana Abad-Santos (Best Supporting Actress, Gawad Urian), Gwen Zamora, RK Bagatsing and Archie Alemania. The acting, for me, really is the best part of the film. 

But it is not enough. And I'm not being a critic here. I just want to be honest with my feelings or "lack" thereof. How so? I simply did not feel something new from "Apocalypse Child." 

Sex, drugs, love and little politics are a tried and tested formula in the big screen. Only for this time, the formula is set among the crashing waves of Baler. 

Unfortunately again, even Baler is not new to me. I've personally seen it's charm with my own two eyes. 

And so for the verdict, let me recall what I told a friend who asked me if it's worth watching in the big screen. 

50-50. 

50 percent for "Apocalypse Child" and 50 percent for independent Philippine cinema. 

So go watch it if its still miraculously showing after reading this. 

P.S. Please don't hate me. 

(All photos from Apocalypse Child on Facebook.)

Baler Part 2: Sidetrip to 'Mother Falls'

Enjoy this scenery on your way to Mother Falls

Considered as one of the most famous destinations for Baler visitors, Mother Falls is actually not found in Baler but in neighboring town of San Luis in Aurora province. 

Only a couple of minutes when traveling via PUVs from Baler (individuals or groups can rent vans or tricycles depending on budget), Mother Falls has become a favorite not only because of its proximity but also its experience. 

The trek to Mother Falls 

Officially named the Ditumabo Falls as it is found in Barangay Ditumabo, Mother Falls is nestled within a portion of the majestic Sierra Madre Mountain Range (one of the longest in the Philippines as it traverses Luzon from north to south). 

For starters, the hike going to the falls itself is much longer than the drive to Barangay Ditumabo. It usually takes an hour of leisurely trek going to the falls, so definitely, it takes about three hours back and forth with swimming, rest and snacks already included in between. 

But don't be afraid as the hike to the falls is friendly especially for those who are active or who are used to hiking because distance from the foot of the mountain to the falls itself is just a kilometer. 

Green and moist. So fresh and cool to the eyes. 

And although the terrain is rugged with lots of boulders and streams to cross, this is part of the experience itself, which is further heightened by the mountain's rainforest. The rocky, flowing streams and "baby" falls that comes from Mother Falls combined with the lush, green canopy and moisty flora, the trek offers the perfect scenery to commune with Mother Earth. 

Unfortunately, serenity is broken by the continuous going in and out of people so I suggest not to visit Mother Falls during peak season--which is now. 

You're near the destination once you begin ascent
on a flat and concrete walkway

You know you're halfway to the destination when you reach the hut where you will have to pay an environmental fee. My brother, who had been to Mother Falls even before all the hype, said that trekking used to be free. I do hope that all the money is actually going to the preservation of the place. 

Upon reaching an upward concrete walkway, then you'll know you're near Mother Falls. And seeing it, you'll understand why it is dubbed such. 

Indeed, Mother Falls is bigger than all the other falls that you will pass by. At its bottom is a crystal clear pool of icy spring water! Take a dip, shower under the big falls if you can, and just let the feeling wash away your exhaustion from hiking. 

Sorry blurred! The falls was so strong its mists reached my lenses

Another downside though, the summer season sure brings in a lot of tourists as you'll have to share the Mother Falls with others, many others! Would you believe that people who are just arriving and those who are already leaving even cause traffic in the narrow walkway! Best be careful or you might slip and fall.  

If you want to escape the crowd, try going to the smaller pools and falls below, and wade there all you want. 

If you find the Mother Falls too crowded,
take a shower in the smaller falls instead 

On you're way down, make sure to stop by the food huts of the locals of Barangay Ditumabo to taste some of their delicacies like banana cue and suman, as well as popular snacks like grilled hotdog and corn. You can also take home freshly picked paco (green shoots that grow in the mountains) sold by the vendors. 

All in all, I'd love to visit Mother Falls again sans the noisy crowd! 

And maybe if there is a good guide, I can also see what locals call the "Father Falls"! If this is true, said falls is much bigger than Mother Falls and found deeper and higher within the mountains!

View my collection of Mother Falls here. 


Read "Baler Part 1: Around town" by following this link or "Baler Part 3: Beyond Sabang by clicking this link.

(TEXT AND PHOTOS ARE MINE. ©EUDEN VALDEZ)

Baler Part 1: Around town

Museo de Baler is found at the site where
Commonwealth President Manuel Quezon was born.

Baler is one of the oldest towns in the Philippines having marked its 400th year in August of 2011. Because of this, its culture is enriched by history and heritage as seen in its streets and structures, and as spoken by its people.

Yet the capitol town of Aurora province is also teeming with adventures. Nestled in the Caraballo Range of the Sierra Madre Mountains and outlined by the Pacific Ocean in east, Baler is home to Sabang Beach, which is famous for surfing, as well as a number of other natural wonders--making it a promising hub for eco-tourism.

As a first-timer in this new land, I could say that all my cravings for culture and adventure were satisfied in a span of three days--with many more places left to see and experience.

In this first part of a series, join me as I toured around town by following Baler's historical trail, and by walking another kilometer from Kilometer Zero. 

Baler Church where the historic Siege of Baler took place

Baler's historical trail begins with its church, established by Franciscan priests using nipa and bamboo only at Sabang Beach in 1500s. Destroyed by a tsunami in the 17th century, it was transferred and built where it stands today. 

Besides being the town's symbol of Catholicism and faith, the church is also a historical place as it is where Spanish soldiers last stood against the Filipino revolution from 1898 to 1899. 

Quoting its historical marker: "A Spanish garrison of four officers and fifty men was besieged in this church by Filipino insurgents from June 2, 1898 to June 27, 1899. . . The garrison learned for the first time that the Philippines had been lost to Spain and that for many months, there had been no Spanish flag in Luzon, except the one waving over Baler Church."

A reproduction of the signatures of the Spanish soldiers
who survived the Siege of Baler. The original
 is displayed in a museum in Spain

The brave Spanish soldiers had to endure so much from the equally brave Filipinos who fought for freedom at last. Many died from disease and some were killed. Those who survived from the siege were "rewarded by the Queen Regent" upon their return to their homeland. 

After Baler Church, a visitor/tourist/wanderer then follows the trail (quite literal because there are actually footsteps imprinted at the the streets) to the residence of Doña Aurora Quezon, wife of Philippine Commonwealth President and Father of Filipino Language Manuel Quezon. Both hails from the town and lived very near from each other. (The provinces of Quezon and Aurora were named after the president and first lady, respectively.)

The residence of Dona Aurora

A local friend even told me, that the people of Baler believe that Doña Aurora and President Quezon were even related by blood (magkamag-anak?!).

Moving on, next stop is the town's Municipal Plaza. The current location of the plaza is where survivors of the December 27, 1735 tsunami rebuilt the new town hall, as well as the church. Only a few families survived by climbing up Ermita Hill, considered as one of the highest peaks of Baler. 

In front of the municipal hall, a monument of National Hero Jose Rizal stood the test of time. Beside him, a bust of Andres Bonifacio was also built. A few paces to his left, a monument of President Quezon was erected by former Sen. Edgardo Angara, also a favorite son of Baler thanks to the legacy left by his parents. 

Also at the plaza is the "Baler 400 Years" commemorative monument by Filipino installation artist Junyee. It features four pillars interconnected by 100 horizontal lines to represent the town's four centuries of history. Again, it was commissioned by former Sen. Angara. 

I bet the monuments of Jose Rizal and President Manuel Quezon
are enjoying this change in scenery  

Last on the list is the Museo de Baler located on a site where President Quezon was born on August 19, 1878. The Commonwealth president is very much associated to Baler that even up to this day, many Filipinos still think that the town is still part of Quezon province. (Aurora used to be part of Quezon until it was created a province in 1979 and Baler was chosen to be its capitol town.)

The museum is built only in 2003 again through the efforts of the Angaras. Large and old trees surround the museum, and in the middle, sits a very majestic sculpture of President Quezon. 

The museum features a traditional structure covered in red bricks and bronze bas-reliefs depicting historical moments of the Philippines. 

Inside, a collection of town artifacts are found, as well as contemporary collections in partnership with other institutions like the Instituto Cervantes Manila. 

Beyond the historical trail, there is also so much more to see in downtown Baler. Here are the sights I spotted and shot: 

Balerianos are devout of the Nazareno too; The defunct Bank of Baler spotted

(Clockwise from top left) The old Georgina Cinema; the town market;
an old establishment; and a printing press

Baler in numbers:

9,255 hectares: land area;
about 39,109: population;
3rd class: municipality;232 kilometers away from Manila with
4 to 8 estimated travel time.

View my photo essay of Baler's historical structures and commercial establishments here.

Read "Baler Part 2: Sidetrip to Mother Falls" by following this link, or "Baler Part 3: Beyond Sabang by clicking this link.

(TEXT AND PHOTOS ARE MINE. ©EUDENVALDEZ)