Mt. Pinatubo: Beauty in destruction

The beautiful caldera crater of the Pinatubo Volcano

The first ever eruption of Mt. Pinatubo in June 15, 1991 was recorded in history as one of the strongest not only in the Philippines but also in the world.  

But did you know that before that fateful day, Filipinos--especially those living in the provinces of Tarlac, Pampanga and Zambales where the mountain sprawls--did not know that there is actually a volcano sleeping underneath the earth surface? For 500 years it laid dormant until it finally awoke--dangerous and deadly. 

Today's reminder of the strong
1991 erruption

Thankfully, the Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology (Phivolcs) and the United States Geological Survey (USGS) predicted the eruption early enough to allow evacuations that saved thousands upon thousands of Filipinos living in the region.

Still, Mt. Pinatubo’s eruption was so strong that it spewed big amounts of lava and volcanic ash. The effects of volcanic spews was further intensified by a typhoon caused massive lahar flow. It also emitted millions of tons of sulfur dioxide that was even reported to have contributed to the depletion of ozone layer.

More than two decades later, the once destructive Mt. Pinatubo is now a beautiful destination in the country. The communities surrounding it have also fully recovered and more importantly, have been even benefitting to the industries that came after the eruption—one of them is a bustling eco-tourism.

After registration at Brgy. Sta. Juliana in Capas, Tarlac, go on a 20-kilometer,
4x4 vehicle ride to get closer to Mt. Pinatubo. 

Go on 4x4

With a number of beautiful and exciting mountains scattered all over the Philippines, Mt. Pinatubo is considered as one of the most accessible to local and foreign tourists alike.

Located at the Cabulisan Mountain Range that snakes the provinces of Tarlac, Zamblaes, and Pampanga, Mt. Pinatubo is only a three-hour drive from Metro Manila.

Enjoying this view with media friends
from other publicationsafter the 4x4 tide

Take-off points are found in four towns in Tarlac namely Capas, San Jose, Bamban and Mayantoc. Among them, Barangay Sta. Juiliana in Capas is the most popular because it houses the Satellite Municipal Tourism Office where all tourists are required to register whenever going to Mt. Pinatubo.

After the registration, visitors will then embark on a 20-kilometer 4x4 vehicle ride to get closer to Mt. Pinatubo’s lake. Lasting for about an hour, the scenery during this drive include expansive of landscapes of lahar—now serving as an industrial industry where locals quarry construction materials.

But to prove that it is still part of nature, herds of cows could be seen dotting the surrounding. There is also what the locals call as the “Crow Valley Canyon,” a combination of green valleys and grey canyons. There are also rocky rivers and terrains that make the ride even more exciting.

The hike will make one understand how powerful the 1991 eruption was

Climb to the top

After the ride, visitors will then embark on another five-kilometer trek this time by foot to finally reach the crater. Although quite long, the trail is considered friendly because it doesn’t require a steep climb. Most part of the trek is on even dried soil and rubble, as well as solid lahar.

Along the way, make sure to greet the children of the Aetas—an indigenous tribe that still thrive within Pinatubo.

This stop-over signals that your closer to the top

Also, the surroundings will also make hikers understand how powerful the 1991 eruption was. What was once mountains peaks transformed into walls upon walls of dried lava.

The destination gets closer when the trail becomes smaller and more vegetated. Finally, a man-made staircase climbs up to crater. Once there, just let the beautiful scenery take your breath away.

At the peak of Mt. Pinatubo is a caldera lake that is 2.7 kilometers wide. It was formed during the 1991 eruption when the volcano collapsed forming a cauldron shape in the middle.

Welcome!

This submerged piece of land then catches water so it becomes a lake. However, mineral deposits of the volcano still reach the lake that is why swimming is prohibited no matter how clear or cool the water is.

A hub for eco-tourism

Besides the Mt. Pinatubo Lake, the province of Tarlac is promoting other tourist destinations that make up an eco-tourism hub.

Also in Brgy. Sta. Juiliana is the Mt. Telakawa, an alternative mountain destination for visitors who are up for a more extreme hiking challenge.

There are also scenic body of waters like the Duglo Falls in San Jose, the Siwako River in Bamban, and the Nambalan River in Mayantoc. 

Group shot with media friends and ECCO execs at the crater

***

This story was originally published for The Manila Times. Read "Back to the Boondocks" to know more. 

This trip was sponsored by ECCO shoes. Visit "Ecco O2 conquers Mt. Pinatubo" to know more. 

(TEXT AND PHOTOS: ©EUDENVALDEZ) 

Baler Part 3: Beyond Sabang

The secluded paradise of Dicasalarin Cove and Bay

Summer is not yet over. While we are experiencing rains and thunderstorms these days, the Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration (PAGASA) has predicted that the rainy season will come middle of June. 

That only means that there is still time to catch your one last epic summer adventure. Those in search for one could head over to the town of Baler in Aurora province. There, you can enjoy the big waves of Sabang Beach and try surfing for the first time.

An already known surfing destination in Northern Philippines, local tourists are seen lining the shore of Sabang on top of surfboards. Why not when surfing lessons come at a very affordable P300 fee per hour.

But while many go to Baler expecting to hit the waves, surprisingly though, this quaint and historical town in Luzon have more water escapades to offer. 

Here are other "wet" destinations you can visit when in Baler: 

DICASALARIN COVE
Dicasalarin Cove and Bay is a hidden paradise found at the southeastern area of Baler, which opens up to the vast Pacific Ocean. 

There, a rustic resort, which is owned by the political and public servant family of the Angaras. According to locals, former Sen. Edgardo Angara Sr. could be seen lounging around in his personal villas on weekends. Everyone needs peace and quiet and I'm sure he finds it at Dicasalarin Cove.

More villas are available for accommodations for people who want to spend more time at the secluded cove--away from all of Sabang Beach's crowd and happenings. 

But for those pressed with time or budget, they could always opt for a day tour and just pay the resort's entrance fee. Here's what to do: 

1. Swim! Take a dip at the beach's clear water with friendly waves. Also, the sand is white so if you are a beach person, this is the perfect place for you.

2. Climb! Go up the steep stairs of one of the hills in Dicasalarin where a lighthouse sits on top. And once there, challenge yourself once more to climb the metal stairs of the lighthouse. If not brave enough, just savor the view of the surroundings including rock formations, mountains and the vast Pacific Ocean.  

After the cool dip and exciting climb, take a break at the resort's restaurant that serves good pizza. Or walk to the Artist's House which serves as a gallery with local artworks, photographs, and sculpted wooden furniture. 

3. Visit PAGASA. When going to Dicasalarin Cove, make sure to stop by the PAGASA station, which you will pass by. Found at the highest point of the cove's mountain, its location is perfect to monitor the weather patterns of Northeastern Luzon. Take time to talk to the weather forecasters and observers to understand the importance of their work. 

DIGUISIT BEACH
Located before Dicasalarin Cove when coming from Baler town proper, Diguisit Beach on the other hand offers a different attraction to tourists. Its beautiful and natural rock formations. 

While you can also swim in the beach, it's more fun to explore the various rock formations--big or small--which can be accessed and climbed by foot when the tide is low. 

HANGING BRIDGE
Last stop before you head back to Baler's Sabang or town proper will be the favorite destination of locals and visitors alike, the hanging bridge. 

Are you adventurous enough to cross the hanging bridge? Well, there is nothing to worry because the bridge is now safe and secure except of course for the bumpy and shaky feeling when people are crossing. 

My brother tells me that its condition now that tourism is picking up in Baler has greatly improved. Before, it used to have missing wooden planks! 

These are just some of the other destinations featuring bodies of water that you can visit in Baler besides Sabang. Make sure to check them out the next time! 

Also read "Baler Part 1: Around town" by following this link, or "Baler Part 2: Sidetrip to Mother Falls" by following this link. 

(TEXT AND PHOTOS ARE MINE. ©EUDENVALDEZ)

Baler Part 2: Sidetrip to 'Mother Falls'

Enjoy this scenery on your way to Mother Falls

Considered as one of the most famous destinations for Baler visitors, Mother Falls is actually not found in Baler but in neighboring town of San Luis in Aurora province. 

Only a couple of minutes when traveling via PUVs from Baler (individuals or groups can rent vans or tricycles depending on budget), Mother Falls has become a favorite not only because of its proximity but also its experience. 

The trek to Mother Falls 

Officially named the Ditumabo Falls as it is found in Barangay Ditumabo, Mother Falls is nestled within a portion of the majestic Sierra Madre Mountain Range (one of the longest in the Philippines as it traverses Luzon from north to south). 

For starters, the hike going to the falls itself is much longer than the drive to Barangay Ditumabo. It usually takes an hour of leisurely trek going to the falls, so definitely, it takes about three hours back and forth with swimming, rest and snacks already included in between. 

But don't be afraid as the hike to the falls is friendly especially for those who are active or who are used to hiking because distance from the foot of the mountain to the falls itself is just a kilometer. 

Green and moist. So fresh and cool to the eyes. 

And although the terrain is rugged with lots of boulders and streams to cross, this is part of the experience itself, which is further heightened by the mountain's rainforest. The rocky, flowing streams and "baby" falls that comes from Mother Falls combined with the lush, green canopy and moisty flora, the trek offers the perfect scenery to commune with Mother Earth. 

Unfortunately, serenity is broken by the continuous going in and out of people so I suggest not to visit Mother Falls during peak season--which is now. 

You're near the destination once you begin ascent
on a flat and concrete walkway

You know you're halfway to the destination when you reach the hut where you will have to pay an environmental fee. My brother, who had been to Mother Falls even before all the hype, said that trekking used to be free. I do hope that all the money is actually going to the preservation of the place. 

Upon reaching an upward concrete walkway, then you'll know you're near Mother Falls. And seeing it, you'll understand why it is dubbed such. 

Indeed, Mother Falls is bigger than all the other falls that you will pass by. At its bottom is a crystal clear pool of icy spring water! Take a dip, shower under the big falls if you can, and just let the feeling wash away your exhaustion from hiking. 

Sorry blurred! The falls was so strong its mists reached my lenses

Another downside though, the summer season sure brings in a lot of tourists as you'll have to share the Mother Falls with others, many others! Would you believe that people who are just arriving and those who are already leaving even cause traffic in the narrow walkway! Best be careful or you might slip and fall.  

If you want to escape the crowd, try going to the smaller pools and falls below, and wade there all you want. 

If you find the Mother Falls too crowded,
take a shower in the smaller falls instead 

On you're way down, make sure to stop by the food huts of the locals of Barangay Ditumabo to taste some of their delicacies like banana cue and suman, as well as popular snacks like grilled hotdog and corn. You can also take home freshly picked paco (green shoots that grow in the mountains) sold by the vendors. 

All in all, I'd love to visit Mother Falls again sans the noisy crowd! 

And maybe if there is a good guide, I can also see what locals call the "Father Falls"! If this is true, said falls is much bigger than Mother Falls and found deeper and higher within the mountains!

View my collection of Mother Falls here. 


Read "Baler Part 1: Around town" by following this link or "Baler Part 3: Beyond Sabang by clicking this link.

(TEXT AND PHOTOS ARE MINE. ©EUDEN VALDEZ)

Baler Part 1: Around town

Museo de Baler is found at the site where
Commonwealth President Manuel Quezon was born.

Baler is one of the oldest towns in the Philippines having marked its 400th year in August of 2011. Because of this, its culture is enriched by history and heritage as seen in its streets and structures, and as spoken by its people.

Yet the capitol town of Aurora province is also teeming with adventures. Nestled in the Caraballo Range of the Sierra Madre Mountains and outlined by the Pacific Ocean in east, Baler is home to Sabang Beach, which is famous for surfing, as well as a number of other natural wonders--making it a promising hub for eco-tourism.

As a first-timer in this new land, I could say that all my cravings for culture and adventure were satisfied in a span of three days--with many more places left to see and experience.

In this first part of a series, join me as I toured around town by following Baler's historical trail, and by walking another kilometer from Kilometer Zero. 

Baler Church where the historic Siege of Baler took place

Baler's historical trail begins with its church, established by Franciscan priests using nipa and bamboo only at Sabang Beach in 1500s. Destroyed by a tsunami in the 17th century, it was transferred and built where it stands today. 

Besides being the town's symbol of Catholicism and faith, the church is also a historical place as it is where Spanish soldiers last stood against the Filipino revolution from 1898 to 1899. 

Quoting its historical marker: "A Spanish garrison of four officers and fifty men was besieged in this church by Filipino insurgents from June 2, 1898 to June 27, 1899. . . The garrison learned for the first time that the Philippines had been lost to Spain and that for many months, there had been no Spanish flag in Luzon, except the one waving over Baler Church."

A reproduction of the signatures of the Spanish soldiers
who survived the Siege of Baler. The original
 is displayed in a museum in Spain

The brave Spanish soldiers had to endure so much from the equally brave Filipinos who fought for freedom at last. Many died from disease and some were killed. Those who survived from the siege were "rewarded by the Queen Regent" upon their return to their homeland. 

After Baler Church, a visitor/tourist/wanderer then follows the trail (quite literal because there are actually footsteps imprinted at the the streets) to the residence of Doña Aurora Quezon, wife of Philippine Commonwealth President and Father of Filipino Language Manuel Quezon. Both hails from the town and lived very near from each other. (The provinces of Quezon and Aurora were named after the president and first lady, respectively.)

The residence of Dona Aurora

A local friend even told me, that the people of Baler believe that Doña Aurora and President Quezon were even related by blood (magkamag-anak?!).

Moving on, next stop is the town's Municipal Plaza. The current location of the plaza is where survivors of the December 27, 1735 tsunami rebuilt the new town hall, as well as the church. Only a few families survived by climbing up Ermita Hill, considered as one of the highest peaks of Baler. 

In front of the municipal hall, a monument of National Hero Jose Rizal stood the test of time. Beside him, a bust of Andres Bonifacio was also built. A few paces to his left, a monument of President Quezon was erected by former Sen. Edgardo Angara, also a favorite son of Baler thanks to the legacy left by his parents. 

Also at the plaza is the "Baler 400 Years" commemorative monument by Filipino installation artist Junyee. It features four pillars interconnected by 100 horizontal lines to represent the town's four centuries of history. Again, it was commissioned by former Sen. Angara. 

I bet the monuments of Jose Rizal and President Manuel Quezon
are enjoying this change in scenery  

Last on the list is the Museo de Baler located on a site where President Quezon was born on August 19, 1878. The Commonwealth president is very much associated to Baler that even up to this day, many Filipinos still think that the town is still part of Quezon province. (Aurora used to be part of Quezon until it was created a province in 1979 and Baler was chosen to be its capitol town.)

The museum is built only in 2003 again through the efforts of the Angaras. Large and old trees surround the museum, and in the middle, sits a very majestic sculpture of President Quezon. 

The museum features a traditional structure covered in red bricks and bronze bas-reliefs depicting historical moments of the Philippines. 

Inside, a collection of town artifacts are found, as well as contemporary collections in partnership with other institutions like the Instituto Cervantes Manila. 

Beyond the historical trail, there is also so much more to see in downtown Baler. Here are the sights I spotted and shot: 

Balerianos are devout of the Nazareno too; The defunct Bank of Baler spotted

(Clockwise from top left) The old Georgina Cinema; the town market;
an old establishment; and a printing press

Baler in numbers:

9,255 hectares: land area;
about 39,109: population;
3rd class: municipality;232 kilometers away from Manila with
4 to 8 estimated travel time.

View my photo essay of Baler's historical structures and commercial establishments here.

Read "Baler Part 2: Sidetrip to Mother Falls" by following this link, or "Baler Part 3: Beyond Sabang by clicking this link.

(TEXT AND PHOTOS ARE MINE. ©EUDENVALDEZ)