Mt. Pinatubo: Beauty in destruction

The beautiful caldera crater of the Pinatubo Volcano

The first ever eruption of Mt. Pinatubo in June 15, 1991 was recorded in history as one of the strongest not only in the Philippines but also in the world.  

But did you know that before that fateful day, Filipinos--especially those living in the provinces of Tarlac, Pampanga and Zambales where the mountain sprawls--did not know that there is actually a volcano sleeping underneath the earth surface? For 500 years it laid dormant until it finally awoke--dangerous and deadly. 

Today's reminder of the strong
1991 erruption

Thankfully, the Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology (Phivolcs) and the United States Geological Survey (USGS) predicted the eruption early enough to allow evacuations that saved thousands upon thousands of Filipinos living in the region.

Still, Mt. Pinatubo’s eruption was so strong that it spewed big amounts of lava and volcanic ash. The effects of volcanic spews was further intensified by a typhoon caused massive lahar flow. It also emitted millions of tons of sulfur dioxide that was even reported to have contributed to the depletion of ozone layer.

More than two decades later, the once destructive Mt. Pinatubo is now a beautiful destination in the country. The communities surrounding it have also fully recovered and more importantly, have been even benefitting to the industries that came after the eruption—one of them is a bustling eco-tourism.

After registration at Brgy. Sta. Juliana in Capas, Tarlac, go on a 20-kilometer,
4x4 vehicle ride to get closer to Mt. Pinatubo. 

Go on 4x4

With a number of beautiful and exciting mountains scattered all over the Philippines, Mt. Pinatubo is considered as one of the most accessible to local and foreign tourists alike.

Located at the Cabulisan Mountain Range that snakes the provinces of Tarlac, Zamblaes, and Pampanga, Mt. Pinatubo is only a three-hour drive from Metro Manila.

Enjoying this view with media friends
from other publicationsafter the 4x4 tide

Take-off points are found in four towns in Tarlac namely Capas, San Jose, Bamban and Mayantoc. Among them, Barangay Sta. Juiliana in Capas is the most popular because it houses the Satellite Municipal Tourism Office where all tourists are required to register whenever going to Mt. Pinatubo.

After the registration, visitors will then embark on a 20-kilometer 4x4 vehicle ride to get closer to Mt. Pinatubo’s lake. Lasting for about an hour, the scenery during this drive include expansive of landscapes of lahar—now serving as an industrial industry where locals quarry construction materials.

But to prove that it is still part of nature, herds of cows could be seen dotting the surrounding. There is also what the locals call as the “Crow Valley Canyon,” a combination of green valleys and grey canyons. There are also rocky rivers and terrains that make the ride even more exciting.

The hike will make one understand how powerful the 1991 eruption was

Climb to the top

After the ride, visitors will then embark on another five-kilometer trek this time by foot to finally reach the crater. Although quite long, the trail is considered friendly because it doesn’t require a steep climb. Most part of the trek is on even dried soil and rubble, as well as solid lahar.

Along the way, make sure to greet the children of the Aetas—an indigenous tribe that still thrive within Pinatubo.

This stop-over signals that your closer to the top

Also, the surroundings will also make hikers understand how powerful the 1991 eruption was. What was once mountains peaks transformed into walls upon walls of dried lava.

The destination gets closer when the trail becomes smaller and more vegetated. Finally, a man-made staircase climbs up to crater. Once there, just let the beautiful scenery take your breath away.

At the peak of Mt. Pinatubo is a caldera lake that is 2.7 kilometers wide. It was formed during the 1991 eruption when the volcano collapsed forming a cauldron shape in the middle.

Welcome!

This submerged piece of land then catches water so it becomes a lake. However, mineral deposits of the volcano still reach the lake that is why swimming is prohibited no matter how clear or cool the water is.

A hub for eco-tourism

Besides the Mt. Pinatubo Lake, the province of Tarlac is promoting other tourist destinations that make up an eco-tourism hub.

Also in Brgy. Sta. Juiliana is the Mt. Telakawa, an alternative mountain destination for visitors who are up for a more extreme hiking challenge.

There are also scenic body of waters like the Duglo Falls in San Jose, the Siwako River in Bamban, and the Nambalan River in Mayantoc. 

Group shot with media friends and ECCO execs at the crater

***

This story was originally published for The Manila Times. Read "Back to the Boondocks" to know more. 

This trip was sponsored by ECCO shoes. Visit "Ecco O2 conquers Mt. Pinatubo" to know more. 

(TEXT AND PHOTOS: ©EUDENVALDEZ) 

Albay: The ultimate Mayon adventure

Majestic Mayon 

The moment I arrived at Legazpi International Airport in Legazpi City in Albay province, I got my first glimpse of the Philippines' most prized Mayon Volcano, known around the world for its perfect inverted conical shape. 

And I immediately realized that the Mayon (derived from the Bikolano word magayon which translates to beautiful in English) was majestic and imposing than all its pictures I had ever seen. I never imagined it to be that beautiful and big as it sits right in the middle of Albay's three cities and 15 municipalities and towers at almost 8,000 feet above sea level.  

The tease that is Mayon

However, within my two days spent at Albay, Mayon seemed to enjoy teasing me as there were always clouds surrounding her, sometimes at the base but most of the times at its crater.

Thus, I couldn't wait to see Mayon in its full grandeur! 

Finally after the long wait--that included the Daragang Magayon beauty pageant's coronation night in Legazpi capital and a day tour of Camalig town--I finally got my fill of Mayon in an adventure beyond my wildest imagination. 

Bicol Adventure ATV has four kinds of ATV
and four different trails to choose from

Thanks to the Department of Tourism by allowing the media junket I was part in to take the ATV ride to Mayon Volcano offered by Bicol Adventure, found in the town of Daraga. 

Arriving late in the afternoon, Bicol Adventure assistant manager and trail master and designer John Morales immediately welcomed us and assisted us in taking initial ATV driving lessons. 

As a first-timer aware of ATV horror stories, I bravely took on a single ATV! Thankfully, Bicol Adventure drivers/guides/instructors handled us professionally and carefully. I finished the beginner's practice lane which included going uphill and downhill, as well as a rocky stream. 

After that quick trial, the whole group through the recommendation of Sir John decided to ride with Bicol Adventure's drivers so that we could catch the sunset at Mayon's Green Lava Trail 3 that is approximately 11 kilometers from base and 3,000 feet above sea level!

Riding with our separate trail guides, the Manila media group left at approximately 5 p.m. After passing by all kinds of terrain: river where lava flows, small streams rugged by volcanic rocks, flat roads filled with volcanic ash, communities and mountain vegetation, we finally arrived at our destination, the drive took about 45 minutes. 

And although we weren't prepared physically (not only from the bumpy ride but also from bathing in and breathing dust), the view was worth it. 

At 360 degrees, I savored the majestic Mayon, which by then came out in full; the Albay Gulf, which faces the province of Sorsogon and according to my guide Lhanz, we were lucky also because clouds cleared and also showed Mt. Bulusan, an active volcano just like Mayon; the rest of Daraga and Legazpi City; and finally the beautiful setting sun. 

Everything just took my breath away. 

According to my trail guide Lhanz Asuncion, Green Lava 3 is the highest trail offered via ATV in Albay. Bicol Adventure's two competitors only traverse the Black Lava trail which reaches only the lava wall at 900 feet above sea level. 

Besides being informative, Lhanz is also a success story thanks to Albay's teeming tourism. After doing odd jobs in Manila, Lhanz returned home and found a job he is passionate about: riding while sharing the beauty of his land's treasure, the Mayon.  

Lhanz Asuncion (right) with a fellow trail guide

On the way back, it was getting dark already and where better to pass than a ghost town? My trail guide and driver Lhanz ably noted the old community that was ruined by the powerful 18th century Mayon eruption that also buried the Cagsawa village (the church bell tower a visual reminder). Left behind were houses, a school and the church now part of the six-kilometer radius permanent danger zone. 

Nevertheless, this only added to the thrill!

So ultimately, ATV ride at Mayon Volcano is something I would love to do again. See you Albay!

The Department of Tourism's media junket from Manila
at approximately 3,000 ft of Mayon Volcano--clearly happy from the experience

(Visit Bicol Adventure here to know their complete list of services and rates. You can also contact John Morales at 0948-9542702, or Lhanz Asuncion at 0927-5022991)

Baler Part 2: Sidetrip to 'Mother Falls'

Enjoy this scenery on your way to Mother Falls

Considered as one of the most famous destinations for Baler visitors, Mother Falls is actually not found in Baler but in neighboring town of San Luis in Aurora province. 

Only a couple of minutes when traveling via PUVs from Baler (individuals or groups can rent vans or tricycles depending on budget), Mother Falls has become a favorite not only because of its proximity but also its experience. 

The trek to Mother Falls 

Officially named the Ditumabo Falls as it is found in Barangay Ditumabo, Mother Falls is nestled within a portion of the majestic Sierra Madre Mountain Range (one of the longest in the Philippines as it traverses Luzon from north to south). 

For starters, the hike going to the falls itself is much longer than the drive to Barangay Ditumabo. It usually takes an hour of leisurely trek going to the falls, so definitely, it takes about three hours back and forth with swimming, rest and snacks already included in between. 

But don't be afraid as the hike to the falls is friendly especially for those who are active or who are used to hiking because distance from the foot of the mountain to the falls itself is just a kilometer. 

Green and moist. So fresh and cool to the eyes. 

And although the terrain is rugged with lots of boulders and streams to cross, this is part of the experience itself, which is further heightened by the mountain's rainforest. The rocky, flowing streams and "baby" falls that comes from Mother Falls combined with the lush, green canopy and moisty flora, the trek offers the perfect scenery to commune with Mother Earth. 

Unfortunately, serenity is broken by the continuous going in and out of people so I suggest not to visit Mother Falls during peak season--which is now. 

You're near the destination once you begin ascent
on a flat and concrete walkway

You know you're halfway to the destination when you reach the hut where you will have to pay an environmental fee. My brother, who had been to Mother Falls even before all the hype, said that trekking used to be free. I do hope that all the money is actually going to the preservation of the place. 

Upon reaching an upward concrete walkway, then you'll know you're near Mother Falls. And seeing it, you'll understand why it is dubbed such. 

Indeed, Mother Falls is bigger than all the other falls that you will pass by. At its bottom is a crystal clear pool of icy spring water! Take a dip, shower under the big falls if you can, and just let the feeling wash away your exhaustion from hiking. 

Sorry blurred! The falls was so strong its mists reached my lenses

Another downside though, the summer season sure brings in a lot of tourists as you'll have to share the Mother Falls with others, many others! Would you believe that people who are just arriving and those who are already leaving even cause traffic in the narrow walkway! Best be careful or you might slip and fall.  

If you want to escape the crowd, try going to the smaller pools and falls below, and wade there all you want. 

If you find the Mother Falls too crowded,
take a shower in the smaller falls instead 

On you're way down, make sure to stop by the food huts of the locals of Barangay Ditumabo to taste some of their delicacies like banana cue and suman, as well as popular snacks like grilled hotdog and corn. You can also take home freshly picked paco (green shoots that grow in the mountains) sold by the vendors. 

All in all, I'd love to visit Mother Falls again sans the noisy crowd! 

And maybe if there is a good guide, I can also see what locals call the "Father Falls"! If this is true, said falls is much bigger than Mother Falls and found deeper and higher within the mountains!

View my collection of Mother Falls here. 


Read "Baler Part 1: Around town" by following this link or "Baler Part 3: Beyond Sabang by clicking this link.

(TEXT AND PHOTOS ARE MINE. ©EUDEN VALDEZ)